Fire up weeknight favorites with horseradish

I love a steakhouse I don t go for a hunk of meat more than once a year but that s not really why I go I am a firm believer in two things the steakhouse meatloaf is usually the best thing on the menu and no one wants to admit it and the real delight of the place lives in the sides cream me several spinach Hasselback me a potato hand me a basket of Parkerhouse rolls still warm from the oven and naturally the sauces Nestled among the b arnaise and peppercorn there it is horseradish Sometimes whipped into a creamy spread sometimes tucked into cocktail sauce dependably waiting to sneak in a little fire It s never the star of the show but I d argue it s the most of intriguing character on the table sharp floral peppery the kind of heat that lingers just long enough to make you take another bite The challenge is horseradish rarely makes it out of the steakhouse It s been typecast as a condiment a once-a-year flourish for shrimp cocktail or prime rib when it could be so much more Related Oregano deserves the spotlight I m honestly a little surprised horseradish hasn t developed more of a cult following given that we are living in The Spiciest Era Everyone is obsessed with heat from Hot Ones to gas-station chips dusted in ghost pepper powder Even Ellen Cushing of The Atlantic appealed earlier this month Why Is Everything Spicy Now Several reasons exist Thai Szechuan and Indian cuisines which have had a handle on heat far longer than the States have gone increasingly mainstream and spicy is one of the cheapest easiest strategies for snack companies to launch a new product Spice has become shorthand for excitement And yet horseradish hasn t quite ridden that wave Its fire is different not a slap-you-in-the-face blaze but a cleaner more vegetal heat that builds and breaks gently more like a tide rolling in and out Which is the beauty of it Horseradish isn t clamoring to burn your mouth off It s gentler friendlier the kind of heat you can fold into a Tuesday dinner without anyone feeling dared Perfect for weeknight experimentation and ideal for sneaking into family favorites The steakhouse itself gives us the blueprint Horseradish is often at its best when it cozies up to cream like in a traditional steak sauce or when it mingles with tomatoes as in a classic cocktail sauce We need your help to stay independent Subscribe currently to backing Salon s progressive journalism From steakhouse to your home For me the first time I considered horseradish beyond its typical restaurant duties was after ordering a seasonal pasta special on a whim shout-out Pizza Lupo in Louisville Corkscrew pasta with spring vegetables peas maybe selected asparagus curls of lemon zest topped with herbed breadcrumbs and a horseradish cream sauce After a long winter of braises and browns this dish felt familiar yet surprising comforting beige at its base but with a spark that made my sleepy taste buds sit up Four years later it still creeps into my mind every March and April when I m planning meals Getting started with horseradish is easier than it seems You can go fresh which packs the sharpest punch but requires a little courage and a good grater or prepared which is milder and keeps nicely in the fridge Either way a little goes a long way Start small taste adjust and let it creep in until it feels natural Once you ve got the hang of it the possibilities open up For creamy yolky dishes fold it into cheesy potatoes swipe it into horseradish aioli alongside fries or whisk it into a horseradish ranch dressing for a steak salad Add a little lift to baked potato soup toss it into egg salad or punch up deviled eggs Tomatoes welcome horseradish with equal grace Stir it into a creamy tomato soup spike a Bloody Mary or whisk it into a tomato-flecked steak-salad dressing yes I ve been obsessed with steak salads lately In both cases it s that subtle peppery lift that makes a familiar dish feel unexpectedly alive One recipe I ve been quietly workshopping in anticipation of cooler weather is a beef-and-mushroom stroganoff with a horseradish cream sauce It s a little love letter to horseradish s steakhouse roots a wink back to that Pizza Lupo pasta and one of my favorite fall and winter weeknight dinners to share with friends and family Stew beef and mushrooms sizzle in butter and herbs until browned Then comes the magic a pour of beef stock a dollop of horseradish and a swirl of half-and-half and sour cream melting into a sauce that s rich tangy and just peppery enough to make you sit up Toss it all over egg noodles finish with a scatter of black pepper and chives and you ve got a dish that tastes like comfort cleverness and a little subtle fire all at once Beef-and-Mushroom Stroganoff with Horseradish Cream